Period Jewelry Highlights

Georgian Period circa 1760 to 1837
Made during the reigns of King George I to IV

Surviving pieces are rare. The few exceptional pieces that have survived, all show extraordinary craftsmanship.

The jewelry was not yet mass produced and tended to be very well made and delicate in design with a French influence.

The emphasis was on the metalwork and
not the stones.

High karat look, silver over gold to set diamonds, seed pearls, agate,
rock crystal quartz, chrysoberyl, coral, garnet, ivory, paste, foil backed stones, portrait miniatures, champlevé, intaglios and mosaics, bezel settings.

Floral and scroll motifs

The setters routinely backed the rose-cut diamonds with a reflecting foil to enhance the beauty of the diamonds and so creating the beloved fire, which is best seen under candlelight.  Care must be taken in cleaning these pieces.

Around 1750, a new rolling mill was invented, that would revolutionize the appearance of all jewelry that came after. It was able to roll uniform sheets of silver and gold, eliminating the need for time-consuming hand hammering.

The motifs were mostly plumes, urns, wheat, butterflies, crescents and Maltese crosses. Around 1804 in Prussia, now Germany/Poland, the wealthy were called upon to give up their jewelry in order to finance the war against Napoleon. They were thanked with iron jewelry replacements, often inscribed with "Ich gab Gold fur Eissen" (I gave gold for iron). Those delicate 'Fer-de-Berlin' objects are highly collectible in present time.

Girandoles (ribbon bows supporting pear shaped gemstones such as garnets) were in high demand during the Georgian period, along with crescent, flower-head and star-bust brooches.

Napoleon Bonaparte was so fond of jewelry that he founded a cameo carving school.

Around 1804 in Prussia, now Germany/Poland, the wealthy were called upon to give up their jewelry in order to finance the war against Napoleon. They were thanked with iron jewelry replacements, often inscribed with "Ich gab Gold fur Eissen" (I gave gold for iron). Those delicate 'Fer-de-Berlin' objects are highly collectible in present time.

Early Victorian
Romantic Period-circa 1837-1860

In 1840, Victoria married her beloved Albert. The engagement ring that he presented to her was a snake with an emerald-set head. This would become the first Victorian Engagement ring ever made. The snake was a symbol of eternal love and emerald was her birthstone. Birthstones were often used in engagement rings of the time.

Period of growth and prosperity

California Gold Rush 1849 and mass production with the advent of the Industrial Revolution had a profound effect.

The use of larger stones, stone in stone setting, and organic materials, colored gold (rose, yellow and green), claw settings, engraving, micro mosaics, portrait cameos and mourning jewelry.

The motifs were primarily Forget Me Nots, pansy, animals, flowers, trefoils, grapes, hands, insects, starburst, horseshoe, lizard, snakes, bird, ivy, bypass design rings, solitaire rings, lockets and fringe necklaces. ‘En Tremblent” movement to pieces.

Mid Victorian
Grand Period circa 1861-1880

White gold started being used in the 1880’s.
Platinum over gold pieces in the late Victorian era (1870-1890).

All platinum pieces by the end of this era. 
South African diamond discovery 1867.

December of 1861, Albert, the love of her life passed away. She was overwhelmed with grief and sorrow. She did not attend his funeral but retreated to Osborne House where for the next 40 years, she had his side of the bed turned down every evening, and his shaving set prepared for him every morning.

Black Jewelry
Tortoiseshell and Piqué
Revivalist
Etruscan, Renaissance, Egyptian
Cameos-Intaglios-Mosaics
Manufactured Gold, Gold-Filled and Plated

Late Victorian-Aesthetic Period circa 1880-1901

Early Celluloid
Silver and Mixed Metals
Diamonds and Colored Gemstones
Sport jewelry comes in to vogue at the end of this era.

Delicate and elaborate filigree work with platinum and platinum over gold being used.  White gold being commercially used by the end of the era.  Millegrain accents, natural pearls, guilloché, lace style pins, ribbon wrist watches, calibré and cushion cuts, rectangular shaped mounts, foliate, swag, demantoid garnets, natural pearls, peridot, spinel, tourmaline, Ceylon sapphires and moonstones.

Art Nouveau Period circa 1895-1910

Natural forms inspired Art Nouveau Jewelry. Female forms, dancers, nymphs, mermaids, water lilies, flowers, dragonflies, and flowing lines are recurrent motifs. Colors were applied with fired enamels and quite often with plique azure, translucent enamel evoking stained glass.

Edwardian/Bel Époque Era

This was the first time jewelry was made to be worn at night, lit by electricity, not candles!

Although Edward VII died in 1910, the "Edwardian" style continued until the outbreak of the war.

World War I put an abrupt end to the light hearted Edwardian spirit.
Life changed overnight and jewelry all but disappeared, either hid away in secure vaults or sold.
Precious metal became scarce and platinum, which was used in the manufacture of armaments, disappeared almost entirely from the market!

Edwardian Period circa 1890-1920

Delicate and elaborate filigree work with platinum and platinum over gold being used.  White gold being commercially used by the end of the era.  Millegrain accents, natural pearls, guilloché, lace style pins, ribbon wrist watches, calibré and cushion cuts, rectangular shaped mounts, foliate, swag, demantoid garnets, natural pearls, peridot, spinel, tourmaline, Ceylon sapphires and moonstones.

Art Deco Period circa 1915-1930’s

Geometric designs with an Egyptian influence.

Pavé and channel setting with millegrain continued in platinum, white gold and yellow accessories. 
Invisible setting patented by Cartier and Van Cleef in 1933.  Carved stones.

Modern brilliant introduced but Old European cut along with single and rose cuts still present.

Clips, jabot, straight line, eternity band, tutti-frutti, enameled borders, vanity cases.

Geometric designs with an Egyptian influence. 

Pavé and channel setting with millegrain continued in platinum, white gold and yellow accessories. 
Invisible setting patented by Cartier and Van Cleef in 1933.  Carved stones.

Modern brilliant introduced but Old European cut along with single and rose cuts still present.

Clips, jabot, straight line, eternity band, tutti-frutti, enameled borders, vanity cases.

Retro Period 1935-1950’s

Retro jewelry is characterized by the bold, oversized and three dimensional use of rose, yellow and green, highly polished gold. Retro jewels often feature massive, emerald-cut aquamarines, citrines and amethyst, accented with smaller rubies, sapphires and diamonds. Retro bracelets, watches and necklaces reflected the glamour and enchantment that Hollywood inspired during times of crisis. The movies provided a wartime escape into a world of fantasy and romance that was "larger than life."

Much information from Warman's Jewelry Third Edition by Christie Romero